Sauvage Mencare is a three-step range of products, The Cleanser, The Toner and The Serum, infused with cactus – the signature ingredient of the regime. The line is made with an astonishing 90 percent of natural components – with active cactus extracts at its core.

_{Dior Grooming Ambassadors – Vince Garcia, Brice Tchaga and Hayden Cassidy (left to right)}

These naturals have all been grown in Lanzarote in the first Dior Garden dedicated to growing plants used in the men’s skincare ranges. As a nice finishing touch, to complete the grooming ritual, Sauvage Mencare is scented with the classic Dior Sauvage.

GLASS caught up with expert trio to learn more about their approaches to grooming and skincare and what their roles as Dior Ambassadors means to them, as well as picking up some grooming tips along the way.

Hayden Cassidy

What attracted you to working in barbering?
The first time I walked into a barbershop, I felt a sense of home and community. I love connecting with people, especially in a creative setting, so to know that every day of work would be different, meeting different people, creating different haircuts and helping to boost people’s confidence, was incredibly exciting for me. The opportunities for learning and developing new skills was something else that really appealed to me and I knew that with clippers and a comb I could travel the world.

Does your Irish heritage influence your work?
Definitely! Being Irish has always played a massive part in everything I do. I’m hugely inspired by the Irish creative scene – a lot of my clients are Irish photographers, actors, musicians, artists and designers. They’re always up for breaking boundaries and creating new looks, which is something I really admire and take a lot of inspiration from. I’ve also named my studio in east London “Croí”, which means “heart” in the Irish language.

The Irish are known for their hospitality. I’ve always hoped that I can extend that element of our culture and make Croí a welcoming and comfortable sanctuary for clients. 

_{Hayden Cassady}

How do you feel about the appointment with Dior?
It’s a dream come true for me and an exciting step for the barbering industry. Dior’s attention to detail, quality and community very much reflects my own ethos, which makes this partnership so special. 

How does the new Dior Sauvage grooming product range fit into your practice?
The Sauvage range has been an incredible addition to my kit and my studio. I use the products as part of my service and whenever I’m on set. Every single product has been carefully crafted for each step needed in grooming and with attention to every detail, including texture, ingredients, bottle design and scent. Most of my clients comment on how easy to use and effective the Sauvage Mencare range is. The cleanser, toner and the serum are three simple steps that can make your daily grooming routine effortless and clients love this. I also finish every service with a Sauvage scent and that adds a special touch and elevates the whole experience.

How do you see the future of barbering? Are there any techniques, ingredients or innovations that you think will become big?
I’ve been in the barbering industry for 10 years now and it’s grown rapidly over the decade. It’s forever evolving, which is one of the things I love about it. Clients are becoming much more comfortable with trying out new things and they want to know what’s best for their skin/beard/hair. Going to the barbershop is no longer a “chore”, it’s an experience. When you find a good barber, it’s the start of a lasting relationship built on trust. I really believe that this focus on a complete grooming package will continue – and Dior is at the forefront of that.

What challenges have you faced in your career?
Where do I start? I’ve faced many obstacles in my career. But I’ve developed a way of overcoming the stress of challenges by welcoming them. I’ve worked on looking at them as an opportunity to learn and grow as a person. I think it’s so important to have the right mindset.

Nothing comes easy but working hard and overcoming battles makes any success so much sweeter. I’ve learned most by putting myself out of my comfort zone and, since I started this journey, I’ve tried to do that every step of the way.

Working in a male-dominated industry, moving to countries without knowing the language and opening up a business after Covid-19 have all been part of the journey. But the passion and determination I have for what I do always gets me through.

What are your future plans?
I’m always open to exploring new opportunities. Right now, I have an incredible studio in east London, a lot of travel plans for educating and a partnership with Dior that I hope will continue to grow. I have faith that whatever happens in the future is going to be exciting. 

What skincare or grooming advice can you share with Glass readers?
Make sure you develop a skin routine that works for you. Hydrated skin is the backbone for everything. A healthy beard and a fresh face go a long way. The Dior Sauvage Mencare Cleanser, Toner and Serum combination is the most simple and effective routine that I have found. My clients love it and I can notice a huge difference on their skin.

Vince Garcia

Where did you your passion for grooming originate from?
My passion for grooming started back in seventh grade. I used to draw a lot as a kid, so I started doing line ups and designs on my friends’ hair. Then, my childhood barber taught me the basics on how to fade. It started off as a hobby then became something I grew very passionate about.

How do you feel about the appointment with Dior as its US grooming ambassador?
Becoming the first Dior US Sauvage Grooming Ambassador was something I had never even imagined. When they approached me, it was an eye opener because I never thought a luxury brand like Dior would reach out to have me as an ambassador. It was very exciting and truly a blessing.

How does the new Dior Sauvage Grooming Collection range fit into your practice?
The Dior Sauvage Grooming Collection fits just right into my practice by enhancing my services and the overall client experience I’m able to offer. From the shave products to the newer three-step Dior Sauvage skincare range, as well as the range of Dior Sauvage fragrances, my clients receive the best of the best when I get to use Sauvage with them in my chair.

_{Vince and Hayden}

What plans do you have to develop the global Dior Sauvage barber network?
I just hope to help bring more brand and product awareness to not only the barbering community but to the rest of my network – educating on how Dior offers a full range of products that work great for your grooming needs.

How did your non-profit organisation, Trade-Works Foundation, come about? Why did you set it up and what ambitions do you have for it?
The founder of Trade-Works reached out to me few years back to see if I wanted to be a part of the team and run the barber programme. I then became director of barbering for the foundation and helped structure the course. I joined the foundation to be able to give back and help those in need find a purpose. My goal was to help inspire and motivate these young individuals.

How do you see grooming evolving? Will it be technique- or product-led or something entirely different?
Grooming has evolved so much in the past five years with more education on cutting techniques, new products and hairstyles. I feel like grooming has its trends with hairstyles that last for a few years, fall out of style and then come back to life. I can see grooming focusing more on hair care and skincare as it evolves, with more elevated products that do more than one thing. 

How has becoming a father influenced or affected your work?
Now as a father of three, it’s definitely influenced me to work smarter and find a balance so I can be more present with the kids and my family versus being gone every day for work. Becoming a father just gave me a much bigger purpose as to why I’m doing what I’m doing. Like I mentioned, working smarter and not harder so that I can be there for the kids when they need me.

What skincare or grooming advice can you share with Glass readers?
My advice would be to put together a simple grooming regimen that you can do daily to help take care of your skin. I know as men we don’t always like things that are too complicated. That’s why I love the Dior Sauvage Mencare products – The Cleanser, The Toner and The Serum – it’s an easy three-step process that I do every morning and night that you, too, can include in your skin regimen. Take the time to care of yourself and your body so you can show up every day as the best version of yourself.

Brice Tchaga

You have been fascinated by hair since childhood. What sparked your passion for hairstyling?
My passion for hairstyling was ignited by observing the diverse and captivating hairstyles of actors in French and African American films. I was mesmerised by their unique styles and the creativity behind each cut. Football also played a significant role in shaping my inspiration: the iconic hairstyles of players became a constant source of fascination for me.

Visiting the hairdresser gave me a closer look at how these styles were meticulously recreated on clients who wanted to mirror their idols, whether they were footballers or actors. Witnessing this artistry firsthand, rather than just on a screen, truly sparked my passion for the craft.

^{Hayden and Brice at work}

How do you feel about the appointment with Dior?
Being affiliated with such a prestigious Maison is a genuine honour. It represents a unique opportunity that inspires me to embark on ambitious projects, showcase my skills and expertise, and deepen my work with the Sauvage Grooming and Men Care line. This recognition affirms the quality of my work and is incredibly rewarding. This role and status motivate me to raise my standards, surpass my own expectations and demonstrate the full extent of my abilities in the expansive field of hairstyling.

How does the new Dior Sauvage grooming product range fit into your practice? How do you use it with your clients?
This range fits seamlessly into my work as a barber. It addresses a real need that we, barbers and hairstylists, had identified. It complements our services perfectly, allowing us to prepare the skin before and care for it after treatments, ensuring optimal hydration that enhances our work. We encourage our clients to take care of their beard, hair and facial skin to achieve a harmonious result.

You have achieved great success as a hair stylist at a young age. Has the momentum of this surprised you and how do you handle it?
I’m not sure we can truly call it a success. People valued my ability to recreate styles from television, whether from football or elsewhere. Word of mouth certainly helped and that contributed to what could be seen as a success. It’s also about personality. I’ve always aimed to approach hairstyling in a unique way, striving to stand out and excel. But it’s not for me to judge the outcome – that’s for others to decide.

_{Vince, Hayden watch Brice at work}

What are your favourite things about your success and what, if any, are the downsides?
What I value most is the recognition from people who praise and compliment my work. It gives me immense strength. I’m exactly where I’ve always dreamed of being. I don’t really see any drawbacks.

How has your Cameroonian background influenced your approach to hairstyling?
My Cameroonian heritage profoundly influences my approach to hairstyling and design, whether it’s for haircuts or braids. My roots and ethnicity inspire me greatly, particularly through tribal patterns and Cameroonian fabrics. I often recreate traditional cuts from Cameroonian villages, starting by applying them to myself and then adding an urban twist to appeal to a broader audience. This blend of my heritage with modern elements, as well as the opportunity to share these creations with others, is something that touches me deeply.

What is your favourite styling technique? How do you develop your skills?
I don’t really have a favourite. I appreciate all hairstyles as a whole. I mainly develop my skills through observation. I had the opportunity to join Guido Palau’s team for fashion week shows and, even now, I continue to improve by watching him. It’s not so much about styling alongside him or learning new techniques; I mostly draw inspiration from his creativity and the looks he envisions for each model.

What skincare or grooming advice can you share with Glass readers?
My main rule is hydration. Whether for hair, beard or face, hydration is essential for beauty, both for men and women. The Sauvage Grooming range is perfect for this, offering a variety of hydrating products offering a variety of hydrating products, each addressing a specific need.

by Caroline Simpson

The post Glass talks to Dior Beauty’s international grooming ambassadors first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

The first posthumous show to have access to the all the work of the influential American photographer Peter Hujar, Eyes Open in the Dark focuses on Hujar’s later work.

_{Peter Hujar, Paul Thek, Florida, 1957}

Known for photographing his subjects with great sensitivity and psychological depth, Peter Hujar is recognised as one of the most important American photographers working in the last century.

He was also a major figure in New York City’s downtown arts and Avant Garde cultural scene in the 1970s and early 80s which he documented in his work.

_{Peter Hujar, Stephen Varble (III), Soho, New York, 1976}

For the show, Raven Row is working closely with the artist’s estate and is alongside well-known images includes less familiar work which has been selected and prepared by, his close friend, the artist and master printer Gary Schneider, as well as the writer and Hujar biographer John Douglas Millar, and Raven Row’s director, Alex Sainsbury.

_{Peter Hujar, Canal Street Pier, 1983}

Hujar’s mature work “processes his influences into a fully achieved and devastating personal style” and its darkening tone which entered his photographer in the 1980s as the AIDS crisis devastated his community.

_{Peter Hujar, Ethyl Eichelberger (II), 1981}

 Hujar died of AIDS-related pneumonia in 1987 when he was 53.

by Caroline Simpson

^{All images courtesy of The Peter Hujar Archive / ARS, New York and Pace Gallery, © Peter Hujar Archive, LLC}

_{Raven Row, 56 Artillery Lane, London E1 7LS}

The post Peter Hujar show to open at Raven Row, London in January first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

From the spice trails through Florence, London at night, Great Gatsby-esque parties, experiencing some California love, sailing the stormy high seas and for an exhilarating spin in an Italian sportscar – all navigated through the mysterious and marvellous medium of perfume.

Chanel Beauty – Allure Homme Sport Superleggera

£130 for 100ml – Available here

A limited-edition release flanker of the Chanel Allure Homme Sport fragrance, Superleggera is inspired by the concept of “superleggera” (meaning super-light in Italian and used to describe a construction technique using super-lightweight materials to make sports car).

Created by Chanel in-house nose, Olivier Polge, Superleggera has a lighter blend of woody notes with its original amber dialled down. It is built around an “engine” centre of patchouli and is a lighter invigorating version of the classic scent.

The classic Allure Homme Sport bottle has been revamped in clear smoked glass with the Superleggera imprinted on it in striking, dynamic red lettering.

Penhaligon’s – The Dandy

£175 for 100ml – Available here

Presented in very stylish Art Deco packaging, The Dandy, the new launch from heritage British perfume house Penhaligon’s pays homage to Great Gatsby-inspired nights of revelry. With a whisky accord blended with raspberry and bergamot, cedarwood essence and base notes of patchouli and cedret, oak and smoke, it’s a glamorous affair.

Noyz – Lost and Found

£85 for 50ml – Available here

Noyz is a gender-neutral fragrance brand set up by Southern Californian serial entrepreneur Shaun Neff. Noyz is dedicated to self-expression in scent, using high quality, long-lasting ingredients to create juices “inspired by real stories and raw feelings” and “the loud, the imperfect, the messy, the real”.

Made by leading nose Jérôme Epinette (the perfumer behind work for Byredo, Dolce & Gabbana and Van Cleef & Arpels), Lost and Found is a subtle and attractive skin scent that draws you in with its profile of Italian lemon and pink pepper; raspberry, rhubarb and jasmine; and a foundation of sugar, cedarwood and amber.

And not only is Noyz high quality and expertly composed – at a very reasonable price point – it is also certified vegan and cruelty-free and uses no synthetic dyes or animal by-products.

Issey Miyake – Le Sel d’Issey

£101 for 100ml – Available here

A major fragrance launch for men from Issey Miyake 30 years after L’Eau d’Issey, Le Sel d’Issey is by rising star perfumer Quentin Bisch.

Bisch says of the new juice, it is “scent of the exact moment the waves roll back, transitioning between the earth and sea. Salt is the memory left behind by a wave on the earth and on the skin, almost like an imprint. I wanted the focus to be salt, which naturally complements the idea of water previously showcased by the brand – with the huge success it experienced – as well as the rhythm and movement of nature.”

With a vibrant refreshing salt accord – augmented by intense cedarwood and oakmoss, Le Sel d’Issey is very wearable and versatile. A great daily go-to scent.

Superdry – Real Superdry 01 for Men

£45 for 100ml – Available here

I love a well-crafted great smelling perfume sold at a very reasonable price. And the new Superdry line released as a duo – one for women, one for men –  is just that.

Real Superdry 01 is composed by master perfumers Nathalie Lorson and Alexandra Monet (the noses behind perfumes for Amouage, Dior, Bulgari, Kenzo and Givenchy), with creative direction from the Superdry CEO Julian Dunkerton. The breezy and enlivening Real Superdry 01 contains skilfully balanced salty, mineral notes blended with a bright citrus, cooled by the balmy Hinoki (a Japanese wood).

Real Superdry 01 has great eco-cred too. It’s presented in 100 per cent recyclable and refillable bottles with wooden caps – made from partially recycled glass. It is also vegan-friendly, eco-conscious scent made of 98 per cent naturally sourced, socially responsible ingredients, too. Superdry is onto a winner.

Beaufort London – Absent Presence

£115 for 50ml – Available here

The last fragrance in the British’s brand Revenant series inspired by the sea and seafaring, Absent Presence draws inspiration from Elizabethan poet Sir Philip Sidney’s haunting sonnet sequence, Astrophel and Stella, which evokes the eerie presence of someone who is never seen but whose presence is felt.

Absent Presence also evokes elemental dark bodies of water and crashing walls of waves. Like the rest of the Revenant series, made of a high level of natural ingredents – 30 per cent eau de parfum – it contains an overdose of concentrated ingredients.

These include galbanum, bergamot and black pepper as opening notes; violet leaf and jasmine at the centre; moored down with extravagant bourbon vetiver, sandalwood, leather, musk, cedarwood and an amber base. A unique compelling composition.

Electimuss London – Spice D’Arno

£200 for 100ml – Available here

Part of the revered brand’s Explorer Collection, the starting point for its new launch – Spice D’Arno – is the city of Florence and the Arno River that flows through it. Composed by master perfumer Celine Barel, who says she was inspired by Florence’s “its rich history. I wanted to work with one of its emblems, a full-grain leather, soft and velvety, which I sublimated by combining it with mystical resins and balsams like myrrh, olibanum, labdanum and gurjun.”

Adding iris to interplay with warm spices, saffron and vanilla (which were once transported on the Arno), Barel seals the deal with an elegant touch of oud, myrrh and cashmeran at the base.

Moncler – Les Sommets Ciel d’Hiver

£175 for 100ml – Available here

Luxury fashion house Moncler introduces a new fragrance into its Les Sommets collection that celebrates the brand’s rich Alpine heritage, stunning mountain forests as well as cosy chalets – Ciel d’Hiver.

Staying true to the codes of the house, a dazzling neroli bursts through to open up the wood- and musk-infused Ciel d’Hiver, creating a refined and complex scent.

Mastenbroek London – London Dusk

£150 for 100ml – Available here

A new limited-edition launch from the UK-based and family-run fragrance company, London Dusk is a collaboration between the founder and master perfumer Ruth Mastenbroek and her son Nic.

The scent combines Ruth’s wealth of experience in formulating with Nic’s innovative take on perfume making. Harmonious and vibrant, London Dusk captures the experience of adventures in the city as dusk falls until dawn awakens.

London Dusk opens with redolent golden fig, elemi, coconut; has a rich tonka bean, saffron, incense heart and a base of sandalwood, vetiver and amber. It’s a brilliant companion to explore the city with

Creed – Centaurus

£330 for 100ml – Available here

This autumn Creed launches its Amber Universe with two perfumes that delve into wood and leather accords to create a “duo reminiscent of radiant amber gemstones”.

Using the finest raw materials from “rare spices to precious woods, resins, and balms”, Amber Universe mines the hypnotic and sensual facets of amber to create these two exceptional fragrances, Delphinus and Centaurus (named after the brightest stars in the universe).

Inspired by the wise centaur of Greek mythology, Centaurus, this wonderfully luxurious EDP blazes with spice notes pink pepper, cinnamon, and cardamom and warm rich tobacco; has a heart of géranium, sandalwood, héliotrope, jasmine patchouli and is grounded by rich and almost luminous amber facets of benzoin, tolu balm, tonka bean, ambroxan and bourbon vanilla.

by Caroline Simpson

The post The Glass Edit of Autumn Scents for Men first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

Even the elegant bottle design – with metal studs at the top designed by Philippe Mouquet – takes inspiration from the brand’s Collier de chien bracelet.

_{Hermès new fragrance, Barénia eau de parfum}

The fragrance – created by in-house master perfumer Christine Nagel – is the first chypre for Hermès. A chypre is a complex and sophisticated kind of scent infused with woody earthy and sometimes leather accents – sometimes brightened by adding some citrus notes like bergamot. They are luxurious and sumptuous.

Eight years in the making, Barénia errs on the leathery olfactory chypre-side and has opening notes of Miracle berry andbergamot; a heart of white gnger lily; and supported by a beautiful wood base of patchouli, akigalawood and oak. Perfect for sliding into Autumn, Barénia is a easy-to-wear, refined scent.

by Caroline Simpson

_{Barénia (EDP) retails at £100 for 60ml and £137 for 100ml}

The post Hermès debuts new fragrance – Barénia first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

As a side-effect of the stroke, his sense of taste and smell was heightened, making many flavours unbearable to him. Even the simple act of brushing his teeth became intolerable too. Vural also developed synaesthesia, which made him experience taste and smell as colours.

The search for favours that he could tolerate – like cardamom – led to the creation, in 2016, of his brand Selahatin (named after his Turkish grandfather), a luxury oral-care company making toothpaste, mouthwash and sprays with poetic names like Blue Forever, Steam Will Rise and Of Course I Still Luv You, which elevate the simple act of teeth cleaning to a ritual.

_{The founder of Selahatin – Kristoffer Vural}

Where did you get the inspiration for Selahatin?
My father came from Turkey and my mum Sweden, so I have a foot in both cultures. The eastern palates are slightly different, so after dinner you may chew on cardamom or something like that to freshen up. I thought it would be interesting to broaden the scope of what could be considered refreshing. I have designed products that will elevate the everyday experience of tooth brushing.

What part did having a stroke play in founding Selahatin?

Essentially, when I was younger, I had a stroke and I was paralysed on the left side of my body. I ended up spending a year in hospital. The stroke messed with my brain – it lost its ability to filter noise and taste sound – but when you have this sensitivity to things, you can really see the beauty in certain experiences. I think, especially when you’re suffering, you pay more attention to what’s beautiful in life.

Being in rehab was a dark time in my life. I just remember, I hated brushing my teeth because that’s the way you start and end your day. I just started thinking there’s got to be a better way you can do this because I can’t think of any products that are more soul-crushing. Conventional toothpaste tasted too synthetic, too chemical, too strong. They are made with 0 per cent love.

_{Selahatin toothpaste}

Can you share with us how the products are developed – for instance the favours of the toothpastes and mouthwashes?
The stroke gave me synaesthesia, meaning my brain conflates two senses, so I perceive scent and taste as colour. Each of the aromas we make [for the brand], I see almost as paintings for the mind. I’m really driven by the creative process. I think that is the most rewarding thing. I’m able to take on a lot of pain just to be able to keep pursuing that, because it’s such a rewarding thing to do.

What are the challenges of setting up a luxury oral-care brand?

As I began to develop the brand, there were no other niche brands or boutique brands, meaning there were no niche suppliers either. That was a real challenge because I knew that I wanted aluminium tubes for the toothpastes, which none of the production lines were equipped to handle. I also wanted to use a lot of different aromas that were typically not available to them because people only ever wanted mint toothpastes.

Because this category is dominated by a few global companies that own near enough 90 per cent of the market share, there’s an incentive structure that means that doing things differently is a much bigger risk than proceeding with business as usual. Change has to come from the outside. We have to force this industry to change. I went through four or five suppliers before I found someone in Switzerland that believed in the vision and in me.

_{Selahatin mouthwash}

Have there been any difficulties in persuading people to spend more money on their toothpaste?
People focus on the clinical side of toothpaste, but, in my opinion, they don’t consider the whole experience of tooth- and mouth-cleansing. I just needed to find people who felt passionately that this was a sector that needed to be challenged and needed some disruption and creative thinking, essentially. Without even discussing the scents and flavours, it is clear that there is a missing link in the beauty ecosystem. Why is somebody who is flying first class given Tom Ford, Aesop scents and then Colgate to clean their teeth? There is clearly something there that doesn’t fit into the picture.

People use our product and go to their dentist and the dentist says, “Your teeth look way better. What have you done?” Hopefully, the user will enjoy using my products, and so they will use them longer than they would with ordinary toothpastes and mouthwashes.

 Stretch that across a year, and the difference is huge. You get a much more positive experience and, as a by-product, your teeth become a lot healthier.

How important to you is ritual?

You start and end your days by brushing your teeth, and in a sense, I think it’s a ritual. Not everyone sees it that way, but I think it can be a ritual. I think humans perform rituals as a means of aligning the connection between body and mind so it can be an act of meditation. It makes you more present.

I don’t know what it is about scent and taste, but they have the ability to move you in place and time. I have some aromas that are inspired by childhood memories – Blue Forever was inspired by nostalgia from when I was a kid in Turkey and we were on this boat in the ocean. I was coming out of the water and the sun was shining on my face and that scent captures the essence of it. Maybe it’s sort of like escapism for me.

It was born out of a dark place at the start, I just wanted to experience something that would lift me out of my everyday problems and just be taken to a magical place for a moment. The magic is really what I’m after, or what I’m looking for, and I hope to provide for all the people as well.

_{Selahatin – Eau D’Extrait, mouth spray}

Selahatin has been called “perfume for the mouth”. Are you interested in fragrance and scent? Do you have a favourite perfume or perfumer?
The way I work around flavour and scent is similar to the way a perfumer does. With our aromas, there will always be a base of something that’s quite refreshing, with something that is emotionally moving. To me, that’s poetry in a toothpaste.

One of my favourite Selahatin aromas is called Of Course I Still Luv You and it has verbena, bergamot, cardamom, pine and three layers of mint. It’s inspired by a painting by an artist named Andrew Wyatt, which is called Christina’s World. The colours are quite light but it has a dark connotation. I tried translating that with a verbena and bergamot, which just encapsulates the balances of the lightness and the dark spices and woody characters.

What have been the high points of your career?

Finding out that Rick Owens enjoys the brand. I had no idea how he found it or why he would use it. I have been wearing his stuff for years and he’s a real inspiration of mine. That was a very good day at the office.

_{Selahatin toothpaste packaging}

What are your future plans for the brand?
We have a lot of exciting collaborations coming up. And we still haven’t covered all the ground in the oral category yet.

My bet is that in 10 to 15 years, even products in the supermarket are going to be more reminiscent of what we’re doing in terms of design and the variety of flavour options. I think that we have the potential to do what Tesla did for electric vehicles, or what Apple did for personal computers, because they have both forged an alliance between art and science. You have got to combine both worlds, that’s when things get really exciting.

by Caroline Simpson

selahatin.com

The post Glass talks to Kristoffer Vural about his oral care brand – Selahatin first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

This is Goldin’s first exhibition of new work since she joined Gagosian last year.

_{Gravestone in pet cemetery, Lisbon, 1998. Archival pigment print 41 x 61 inches (104 x 154.8 cm)
Edition of 3 + 2APs © Nan Goldin. Courtesy the artist and Gagosian}

You never did anything wrong, Part 1 (2024) is Goldin’s first abstract work. This is inspired by the myth that eclipses are caused by animals stealing the sun. Filmed in Super 8 and 16mm, You never did anything wrong, Part 1 takes the form of a home movie focused around the “totality of the solar eclipse”. The accompanying soundtrack includes music by Valerij Fedorenko, Mica Levi, as well as the ambient sounds of nature recorded during the eclipse.

_{Holy sheep, Rathmullen, Ireland, 2002. Archival pigment print 41 x 61 inches (104 x 154.8 cm)Edition of 3 + 2APs © Nan Goldin. Courtesy the artist and Gagosian}

The other moving-image work, Stendhal Syndrome (2024), contrasts photographs Goldin has taken over the last 20 years of classical, renaissance and baroque masterpieces with imagery she has made of her community of friends, family and lovers.

_{Orpheus Dying, 2024 Archival pigment print 24 x 64 3/4 inches (60.8 x 164.5 cm) Edition of 3 + 2APs © Nan Goldin. Courtesy the artist and Gagosian}

_{Hermaphroditus, 2024. Archival pigment print 34 x 49 7/8 inches (86.2 x 126.5 cm) Edition of 3 + 2APs © Nan Goldin. Courtesy the artist and Gagosian}

Photographs of paintings and sculptures from museums around the world – including the Louvre, Galleria Borghese, the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Prado – are juxtaposed with Goldin’s own images which creates an artistic resonance that seems to reveal universal emotional truths as well as formal similarities. These take the form of the grid images that Goldin has explored over the past 30 years.

_{Kiss 2, 2024 Archival pigment print 34 x 44 3/4 inches (86.2 x 113.7 cm) Edition of 3 + 2APs © Nan Goldin. Courtesy the artist and Gagosian}

_{The eyes, 2024 (detail). Archival pigment print 53 7/8 x 77 7/8 inches (136.8 x 197.8 cm)
Edition of 3 + 2APs © Nan Goldin. Courtesy the artist and Gagosian}

The moving-image works are presented in specially designed pavilions by Goldin working with Lebanese-French architect Hala Wardé. The design of each structure echoes the film it is showing inside. This creates a Gesamtkunstwerk something that unifies architecture, image, and sound.

by Caroline Simpson

_{You never did anything wrong opens on September 12, Gagosian, 522 West 21st Street, New York}

The post Nan Goldin new work opens at Gagosian, New York first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

I spoke to the Glass Beauty Director Kim Brown to find out how to use these brilliant products which play a leading role in her professional, as well as personal, kit.

 Les Beiges Bronzing Cream – £48

“I personally love this product because it’s so incredibly natural. It builds gradually with a finish that isn’t too matt or shimmery. It melts into the skin and creates a beautiful sun-kissed glow. I apply to the areas of the face where the sun naturally catches.“

Les Beiges Water Fresh Tint – £55

“This product actually contains skincare in the molecules. It looks a bit bubbly when you first pump it out. However, to use it, you buff it into the skin with a brush using light, circular movements. It just melts into the skin and gives this lovely dewy, fresh finish.

“It’s really lightweight but gives you just enough coverage. And I actually love it. I use it on myself all the time. Because it’s got lots of skincare in it, it doesn’t dry out during the day. It just stays really fresh looking – which I love.”

Les Beiges Highlighting Fluid – £47

“I think this highlighting fluid works really well for the parts of the face where you’d normally catch the light – the high cheek bones, the brow bones, a little bit down the nose and the bow of the lips. It just reflects light where it would naturally catch it. Sometimes, I like to mix it also with a moisturiser, before I apply it. Then you get this sort of glow from within. You only need a tiny little bit.

“It gives you this lovely, sort of, radiant glow underneath your foundation. Otherwise, you can just apply it with a blush, a brush or your fingertips. You can do this to highlight your cheekbones – and anywhere that you want to highlight.”

Les Beiges Eyeshadow Palette – £57

“The colours on this palette blend really well. They almost feel a bit creamy, but obviously set to a powder. They are really long lasting. And I like the fact that a lot of the shades are very matte, so you can just use a big blending eyeshadow brush and almost get a mood in the eye. It gives a lovely, sort of warm tint on the eye, rather than looking too makeup-y.”

“And then, it’s got a really nice shimmery highlight eyeshadow in the palette as well. That’s really nice, you know. You can use it just in the centre of the eyelid or in the corners of the eyes to really open the eye up. They’re just lovely, warm, sort of taupe-y browns, not too ashy. They are really flattering for most skin tones.”

Stylo Ombre Et Contour – £34

“This pencil is super-easy to apply. I like to use it in the sort of socket of the eye, almost like a chunky kind of line, and then just blend it out with a brush. It’s got a really nice, creamy, sort of matte finish, and is really blendable and really easy.

“You can also use it like a kohl pencil, just a slightly Smokey look. It’s really easy to use, and it’s good for if you’re on the go. You can keep it in your make-up bag or in your handbag.”

Les Beiges Blush Stick – £42

“I literally can’t live without these. Again, they look like skin because of their cream texture. They give you a hint of colour and highlight at the same time. They give a really dewy finish. And you can also use it on the eyelids and the lips – if you like that sort of slightly dewy eyelid look which a lot of people love. I know I do.  It comes in quite a few different colours. The transparent ones are also amazing. I use them on the upper part of the cheek.”

“I don’t really use them on the apples of the cheek, because you don’t want too much highlight or light there. I use it slightly higher up, and it’s quite sculpting, They are super flattering and youth-giving, I would say, just because of the fresh, dewy finish.”

by Caroline Simpson

_{The complete Les Beiges collection in available in a wide range of skin tones from Chanel}

_{@CHANEL.BEAUTY #CHANELMakeup}

The post Glass guide to Chanel′s Les Beiges Healthy Glow make-up first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

The House of Oud (THoO) – Crazy Wabisabi

£220 for 75ml – Available here

The House of Oud (ThoO) presents its fragrances in some of the most stunning and desirable bottles. From its latest collection, the totally unique floral-green Crazy Wabisabi is composed by perfumer Cristian Calabrò – the nose behind many of the house’s perfumes.

Drawing on his knowledge of Japan, Calabrò has created a one-off wasabi accord from the spicy rhizome of the Wasabia Japonica plant and added citrus, fruity bergamot, pink pepper and lime leaves, as well as a pear accord. Crazy Wabisabi has floral notes at the centre and a musk, cinnamon and vanilla base. This is a bright yet long-lasting extraordinary perfume.

Murdock London – Napier Cologne

£50 for 50ml – Available here

The innovative British barbershop and grooming brand, Murdock London, has launched Napier Cologne, inspired by the dapper and dashing early racing scene of the last century.

Napier Cologne is a confident and invigorating blend of cypress, fig, dried fruits and patchouli, lending a warm fruity touch. With a lot of staying power, it’s beautifully moored with earthy oakmoss and amber

Narciso Rodriguez – For Him Vetiver Musc

£90 for 100ml – Available here

Created by the very talented Mathilde Bijaoui, the nose behind scents for BDK Parfums, Dolce&Gabbana, Jo Malone London and Lalique, For Him Vetiver Musc is her latest. This flanker harmoniously blends and builds wood, green and spice aspects around the classic 2007 Narciso Rodriguez, For Him.

With patchouli, vetiver and cedar making a rich base, “the minerality is given by different agreements combined with each other,” says Bijaoui. “Cold and spicy cardamom, incense, aromatic geranium, marine and leathery red algae – a magnificent ingredient reminiscent of musk. This minerality is what makes the fragrance unique.”

Hermès – H24 Herbes Vives

£83 for 50ml – Available here

A new flanker of the Hermès’ H24, for H24 Herbes Vives master perfumer Christine Nagel takes her lead from nature as it is found in the city or town, rus in urbe, if you will, and the “happy smell of nature after the rain”.

Bosky, earthy, herbaceous, minty, musky and very fresh, Nagel combines nature and technology by blending notes of fresh herbs – savory[CS1] , sorrel, hemp, parsley, pear granita with a new mint-inflected molecule Physcool®, which gives the “sensation of freshness on the skin”.

Boujee Bougies – Verdant

£160 for 100ml – Available here

The pun-loving team behind Boujee Bougies, its creative director Nick Gilbert and perfumer Pia Long, have launched a fabulous fragrance line based on their brilliant candles.

Verdant is Inspired by the idea of a sci-fi JG Ballardian skyscraper completely engulfed by snaking and writhing foliage surrounded by “dewy mists”.  This a is wildly brilliant green scent (made of neroli, cactus accord and timut pepper) underscored by a compelling musk-like “concrete accord” of violet leaf, tomato leaf and white flowers.

Bulgari – Pour Homme Eau de Parfum

£114 for 100ml – Available here

This year, Bulgari has launched an eau de parfum version of its classic eau de toilette, the eponymous Pour Homme. It’s composed by same master perfumer, Jacques Cavallier, who created the original back in 1996.

Pour Homme Eau de Parfum beautifully riffs on the original’s tea and musk profile, while intensifying and enlivening it by layering and adding shimmering new notes of a sparkling ginger and deeper, more smoky, woody tea notes of Darjeeling tea accord, Ceylon tea extract, guaiac wood essence and musk

A welcome contemporary update of a classic.

Penhaligon’s – ALUla

£215 for 100ml – Available here

From the brand’s Trade Routes collection and composed by master perfumer Fanny Bal, who was inspired by the Incense Road, the latest from Penhaligon’s AlUla evokes a treasure-carrying procession travelling miles and miles, by foot and camel, across the desert, under the sheltering sky to find a sanctuary in the oasis.

ALUla contains sparkling plum, spices notes (turmeric and cardamom) and soft vanilla. In the base, patchouli and olibanum are combined to give a spice-green base.

Initio Parfums Prives – Narcotic Delight

£245 for 90ml – Available here

The hedonists at Initio Parfums Prives have dropped the fifth in their Carnal Blends collection – Narcotic Delight. The intoxicating and playful Narcotic Delight is very juicy. It’s a more-ish blend of vanilla bean, pink peppercorn, cherry and even hedione, a molecule that apparently “opens the pleasure receptors in the brain and promotes attraction”. It has cognac, tobacco in the base.

The sensual Narcotic Delight doesn’t take itself too seriously and will leave you wanting more.

Memo Paris – Cappadocia

£235 for 75ml – Available here

Memo Paris, the cult and covetable perfume house known for its fabulous leather scents, launched Cappadocia earlier this year. It is inspired by the same-named Turkish city, Cappadocia, famed for its hot air balloons and distinctive landscape of volcanic rock formed into towers. Spicy and woody, the intriguing Cappadocia is rich with saffron, myrrh, sandalwood and Turkish rose.

by Caroline Simpson

The post Lightening up – the Glass round up of new scents for men first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

La Collection Privée Christian Dior – New Look

£245 for 75ml – Available here

The New Look was Christian Dior’s famous post-war collection. Now Francis Kurkdjian, the House’s new perfume creative director, wants to explore the relationship between its couture heritage and fragrance with a view to becoming a “couturier-perfumer”.

True to Christian Dior who wanted his fragrances to be an olfactory mirror of his couture, I strove to retain this perfect symbiosis between fashion and fragrance with incredible daring,” he says. “I wanted to create a fragrance that echoes the spirit, nuances and essence of the New Look today.”

New Look is a beautifully composed and compelling scent with frankincense extract and white amber notes for an earthy base. Aldehyde and a light touch of incense elevates the scent.

Chanel Beauty – Chance Eau Fraîche

£136 for 100ml – Available here

This season, Chanel reinterprets its delightful classic fragrance, Chance Eau Fraîche. This beautiful reworking by Chanel perfumer Olivier Polge has the richness and intensity of an eau de parfum.

For this reworking, Polge has not simply ramped up the concentrations of the original ingredients – it has the same profile ­– but with more density and texture. He has created Chance anew.

L’Objet – Kérylos

£135 for 50ml – Available here

The master perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena – the nose behind Eau au Thé Vert, Terre d’Hermes and several Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle – has collaborated with the founder of L’Objet Elad Yifrach in a “joint obsession” to create Kérylos.

This eau de parfum evokes the Mediterranean, its landscape, its sand and rocks warmed by the sun. Its aromatic, musk and citrus ingredients in Ellena’s genius hands are blended beautifully in perfect olfactive harmony. This is a wonderful fragrance.

Celine – Cologne Céleste

£240 for 250ml – Available here

As you might expect, Cologne Céleste from Celine is a very stylish act. Refreshing, light and complex with beautiful warming undertones of skin, it is ideal for the days between winter and spring … when the warmth turns cooler and vice versa.

Celine creative director Hedi Slimane says, “I created the eau de cologne Céleste and its line for the intimate and comforting ritual of bathing. This is an essential gesture that systematically plunges me back into the gentle and soothing atmosphere of childhood.”

From the Celine Haute Parfumerie project, Cologne Céleste has accents of angelica, sweet lemons essence, petitgrain, neroli, ambrette butter and orris butter.

Hiram Green – Philtre

£145 for 50ml – Available here

Gouda-based via a long stint in London, Canadian perfumer Hiram Green makes breathtakingly opulent handcrafted fragrances using only ingredients of natural origin. His most recent launch, Philtre, which means love potion, is an intoxicating blend of flower stems, clove, rose, carnation, jasmine, resins, vanilla and black pepper. Love is indeed the drug.

Serge Lutens – L’Orpheline Limited Edition

£138 for 50ml – Available here

The legendary Serge Lutens re-issued L’Orpheline from his Collection Noire this Spring as a limited edition to celebrate its 10th year.

Originally created by the perfumer, Christopher Sheldrake, L’Orpheline is elegant, intriguing, delicate and mysterious with notes of black pepper, dry woods and incense. This anniversary is well worth celebrating.

Granado – Flora Magnífica

£110 for 75ml – Available here

In 1870 in Rio de Janeiro, Brazilian fragrance house Granado was founded, where it was originally a pharmacy that specialised in making remedies, cosmetics and other products made from herbs and native flowers. Now the company solely produces fragrance, home scents and body care and has recently expanded into Europe.

Composed by nose Leandro Petit, Flora Magnífica is its latest perfume. It is made using the maceration process – only a few perfumeries use this – which allows ingredients to mature and deepen, enhancing the olfactory notes. As the name suggests, Flora Magnífica is a magnificent floral fragrance with heavenly bergamot, green leaves, rose, jasmine, magnolia, coconut blossom, musk and sandalwood.

Maison Tahité – Officine Creative Profumi, Floranilla

£110 for 100ml – Available here

The founders of cult perfume house Laboratorio Olfattivo, Roberto Drago and Daniela Caon, have launched Maison Tahité – Officine Creative Profumi, a line exploring the “raw materials of perfumery” and an “ode to the gourmand note”. Their debut collection celebrates vanilla, cocoa and coffee – all things I very much like. Vanilla is having a moment in fragrance and I am here for it.

The mysterious Floranilla, made by nose Lucien Ferrero, is an intriguing and cleverly balanced blend of vanilla absolute with iris and violet. It also contains tangerine, violet absolute, heliotrope; a heart of iris concrete and vanilla absolute with a base of myrrh and vetiver of Haiti.

by Caroline Simpson

The post New blossoms – Glass reviews some of our favourite summer perfume launches first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

July 14, or Bastille Day as it is known in France, is a National Day of Celebration commemorating the beginning of the French Republic.

On that date in 1789, the Bastille, a prison, was taken by revolutionaries. This event is regarded as the beginning of the French Revolution which is based on the principles of ‘Liberty, Equality, Fraternity’.

_{14 Juillet by Bastille Paris}

To celebrate this day, the perfume house has launched 14 Juillet. Brand founder Sophie Maisant says: “14 Juillet is so much more than just a date. It’s the echo of a French way of living, a timeless ode to “joie de vivre”, union and freedom. 

“This fragrance is not limited to a particular time or place, it embodies the spirit of French celebration, that ‘French Touch’ that resonates from the streets of Paris to the villages of the countryside, a fragrant tribute to the elegance, conviviality and spontaneity that characterises France”.

The joyful amber and vanilla scented eau de parfum, 14 Juillet, was created by Irish nose Meabh McCurtin, who says: “This is a luminous, sunny creation that starts with a tangy dazzle of tangerine, amplified by the extra sparkle of blackcurrant, which, like fireworks, makes the whole fragrance sparkle and light up. 

 “An impression reinforced by the particularly atypical, racy smokiness of an original “fireworks” accord that I created specifically for this fragrance. The cheerful energy of this perfume is warmed by the amber intensity of labdanum, cinnamon and violet leaves.  And vanilla enters the game and becomes the master!”

Vive la France, we say.

by Caroline Simpson

_{Available now from Bastille Paris from £39 for 15ml} 

The post Bastille Paris celebrates Bastille Day with new perfume – 14 Juillet first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

BORN in northern France into a family who were in the textile business, it was perhaps natural for Marc-Antoine Barrois to work in fashion himself. After creating his own collections in Lille, he subsequently worked for Dominique Sirop’s couture house and Jean-Paul Gaultier during his Hermès era and then Giambattista Valli in Paris.

In 2009, while at Valli’s, he realised that there was a gap in the market for haute couture clothes for men and so established his own fashion business – specialising in “costumes to tuxedos, capes, coats and even jogging jackets in incredible materials/fabric”.

_{Marc-Antoine Barrois. Photograph: Olivier Yoan}

Barrois met master perfumer Quentin Bisch in 2015 while still in his early 30s. Due to a shared vision and love for quality materials they “immediately created an extraordinary creative partnership”. In collaboration with Bisch, he launched his eponymous perfume brand in 2016. This creative partnership continues to this day.

The leather and spice-infused B683 was their first perfume – named after the asteroid in the Little Prince by Saint Exupery and also Barrois’ date of birth. In a remarkably short time, Marc-Antoine Barrois fragrances have become a huge success, winning a Fragrance Foundation award in 2020.

Creating imaginary universes in his small but formidable perfume collection, he has also opened two enchanting fragrance boutiques – in Paris and London – and in February, he unveiled his flagship store on Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré, Paris.

_{B683 Extrait by Marc-Antoine Barrois}

How and why did you make the move from couture fashion to perfumery?

I didn’t move from one to the other … As a creative director I like to create with different medium and I had already added some pieces of jewellery to my portfolio, so when I met perfumer Quentin Bisch I thought “why not a perfume?”, although I had not thought of creating a full line of perfumes as I do now. It started with one – B683. I never thought it would be so successful – despite the fact I am mad about this first scent.

How does the creative relationship work with perfumer Quentin Bisch??

Quentin is a genius and I have a huge respect for his work. When I met him, I felt like I had met a twin brother. There is a lot of this in our work relationship, from a few words and quick brainstorming between the two of us. He suggests many ideas from which we have to make choices and move forward to create unique scents.

In your opinion and experience, are there any similarities between haute couture and perfumery? And if so, what are they?

Yes and no. Couture is season driven. However, I always tried to create creative timeless pieces; perfume to me is all about creating a timeless elegance and signature. The main similarity is that the root of my perfumes is in my couture DNA. Exigence, perfectionism, elegance, creativity and uniqueness are some of the ingredients of my perfumes.

You seem fascinated by imaginary, futuristic and also nostalgic worlds and creating these in your brand. How does this creative artistry influence and inspire your perfume-making and brand?

My creative vision and my dreamlike imagination inspire my work the same way it can inspire a director. Look at how crazy the amazing universes of Tim Burton are. I am fascinated by the power of imagination. Sometimes, it emphasises a nostalgic memory and other times it makes you try to create a memory for a possible future.

_{The interior of Marc-Antoine Barrois’ shop in Piccadilly, London}

Sustainability is very important to your fragrance house. Can you tell me what sustainable practices you use and how you plan to develop them?

Ten years ago I read an article about insects becoming extinct within 30 years – I was 30 then ­– and it was like a huge slap in the face. I had been alive during those 30 years and didn’t do much. As an entrepreneur, you can change things in a second. So, I decided to remove all plastic from my products (there is no plastic wrapping or velvet plastic foam inside the boxes anymore).

I stopped producing my packaging overseas and relocated everything to France. I took out controversial UV filters and preservatives from my perfumes’ composition and considered all the ecological progress we could make as a company – including traveling less.

_{The Marc-Antoine Barrois Boutique in Paris.}

What challenges have you faced in setting up your fragrance house?

I have been really lucky. I am a hard worker, so I did not mind working on this project for hundreds of hours. Everything has been like a dream. My main challenges were first to make people accept that we would develop the company more slowly because I want to remain fully independent. Now we have grown a lot. We have found enthusiastic and talented staff who share our company values. We are like a family where kindness and respect are super important.

What are the high points of your career?

Due to Covid 19 in 2020, one of the high points of my professional life happened when I was on my bed watching the virtual ceremony of the UK Fragrance Foundation live. Ganymede won the Perfume Extraordinaire award. This was a true game changer as it drew a lot of attention and publicity to my brand.

Another high point is a very recent one. After opening my first perfume store in Paris and a second one in London, I have just opened my flagship store in Paris, at 14 Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré … where I started my career in 2004 working for French couturier Dominique Sirop.

Apart from your own fragrances, what other perfumes do you admire?

I have always loved Lanvin Arpège and Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps as well as Chanel’s Bel Respiro. When I worked at Hermès (with Jean-Paul Gaultier in 2006), I discovered a full range of other amazing fragrances such as the house’s Bel Ami, Eau des Merveilles, Eau d’Orange Verte, Un Jardin sur le Nil … but I was always disappointed by the short-lasting nature of these perfumes.

_{Tilia – the latest fragrance from the brand}

What other plans do you have for your brand?

We have launched an exceptional new scent this year – Tilia. But beside that specific perfume, I want to keep sharing my dreams and creating experiences that bring all of us back to our emotional mind and let us be a kid again for a moment or for longer.

by Caroline Simpson

marcantoinebarrois.com

The post Glass speaks to perfumer Marc-Antoine Barrois – founder of his eponymous fragrance house first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

Departing from the traditional N°5 bottle shape – inspired by a whiskey flask – the drop form reminds me of the brand’s delightful pebble-shaped hand cream, La Crème Main and has the tag line “Just a drop” and shaped just like a drop of perfume.

_{Chanel N°5 L’Eau – Just a Drop}

N°5 L’Eau was launched in 2016 and created by Chanel’s inhouse master perfumer Olivier Polge as a contemporary, spirited, radiant and shimmering version of N°5 while still maintaining its classic – and iconic – aldehyde, jasmine and rose-rich formula.

Chanel N°5 L’Eau – Just a Drop

Chanel Head of Packaging and Graphic Design Creation, Sylvie Legastelois, who designed the house’s 31 Le Rouge range of lipsticks which were encased in glass and were inspired by the mirrors that lined the staircase at Chanel’s Parisian apartment, 31 rue Cambon, also created the design of the N°5 L’Eau Drop bottle.

by Caroline Simpson

_{Chanel N°5 L’Eau – Just a drop (EDT), £120, 50ml}

The post Chanel launches limited-edition Chanel N°5 L’Eau – Just a Drop first appeared on The Glass Magazine.